Today I had to tend to the realities of life: paying bills, a little work (yeah, despite it being my vacation), and some civic volunteerism duty (I like it). I think the only hot rod thing I did today was pay for the parts shown below. A great deal, by the way, for which I'm grateful.
Oh, but I did get invited to help with the local drags coming up in October! That may be Twice Lucky's debut. I'd hoped to bring her out to some events/shows in September, but I had to accept the fact that that's not going to happen. But October, on the other hand...
More in store for tomorrow, most of which will be picking up parts: spring, starter, generator, and maybe carbs and distributor. Let's see, I also need a coil, condenser, what else? Oh, and recharge my battery to see if I can spin the motor...and, and, and...
-30-
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
A Birthday Well Spent
Well, never made it to the diner as suggested below. Got in the car and received a call from my transmission rebuilding friend who had some car parts for me (below): '32 Ford transmission mount/rear bearing retainer, U-joint, and clutch release shaft. Not shown is a part I need to return since its wishbone mounting points are too wide to work for the T or RPU: a '37-'41 genuine Dago dropped axle.
After stopping by to get the parts (and a brief lunch of necessity at the golden wretches), I headed out to Pick-n-Pull on a lark to see if the '37 1-1/2 ton truck that donated its motor to Twice Lucky was still there so I could finish robbing its dash (below, before I absconded with the gauges).
It wasn't, and I was disappointed thinking how many imports would come back across the sea from that Ford steel. You can imagine how elated I was to later learn that some forward-thinking restorer or hot rodder got the whole cab, which made me feel better that I didn't take the dash, so they have that much more with which to work.
Instead, I stumbled upon an International truck (my other old car is my Scout Traveler) from which I refrained stealing its 4-barrel carb and intake and, remarkably, a Scout II! It graciously donated to me its lovely International Orange tailgate, so I can run a tailgate when I take the top off my Traveler. I also made off with the side trim, too. But the tailgate was the best deal at $50! I think repops in fiberglass are around $250 and may or may not include the mounting and latch hardware.
Donor Scout Lamenting the Loss of Its Gate
My Scout Posing With Its New Gate
After all that, I still had time for a family birthday dinner and then off to my local music haunt for a little hillbilly and rockabilly to close out the night before this just-before-midnight post.
-30-
After stopping by to get the parts (and a brief lunch of necessity at the golden wretches), I headed out to Pick-n-Pull on a lark to see if the '37 1-1/2 ton truck that donated its motor to Twice Lucky was still there so I could finish robbing its dash (below, before I absconded with the gauges). 
It wasn't, and I was disappointed thinking how many imports would come back across the sea from that Ford steel. You can imagine how elated I was to later learn that some forward-thinking restorer or hot rodder got the whole cab, which made me feel better that I didn't take the dash, so they have that much more with which to work.Instead, I stumbled upon an International truck (my other old car is my Scout Traveler) from which I refrained stealing its 4-barrel carb and intake and, remarkably, a Scout II! It graciously donated to me its lovely International Orange tailgate, so I can run a tailgate when I take the top off my Traveler. I also made off with the side trim, too. But the tailgate was the best deal at $50! I think repops in fiberglass are around $250 and may or may not include the mounting and latch hardware.
Donor Scout Lamenting the Loss of Its Gate
My Scout Posing With Its New Gate
After all that, I still had time for a family birthday dinner and then off to my local music haunt for a little hillbilly and rockabilly to close out the night before this just-before-midnight post.-30-
Happy Birthday to Me!
Nothing car-related to add at this moment, just dropping off some pics to the post below. Off to the diner for lunch!
-30-
-30-
Monday, September 1, 2008
Early Birthday Surprises!
Tomorrow is my birthday (woo-hoo) and as today worked out, I got two early surprises for my birthday: a transmission rebuild and a complete '41 rear end!
Transmission Rebuild
My friend who is a gear wizard with early Ford stuff (mixing and matching stuff that's not supposed to work together, amazing adaptations of overdrives, etc.) called me early this morning to see if today would work for him to come by and help me rebuild my '39 (for lack of a better year) transmission. I said sure, since I hadn't anticipated him coming by for a few days. In the span of just a couple of hours, some of which was spent catching up and showing off my project, he had virtually singlehandedly rebuilt the transmission, with me basically watching and learning (admittedly, there's not much to it; not enough for two guys).
What I started (and ended) with is a '37-'39 transmission case (they're all the same) with a '39 shifter top (double-detent; the rails on which each shifting fork slide have ball bearings pressing from each side, thereby supposedly holding the transmission more firmly in gear) and the correct fork for the later (better) synchro; and late ('46-'48) gears. My particular transmission had seen duty backing up a small block Chevy (I think a 283) and consequently had stripped teeth on the cluster and low-reverse sliding gears, so today's "rebuild" simply consisted of replacing those gears with some good used ones. The synchro brass was in good enough shape to retain, as was the rest of the brass and bearings. Since I'll likely subject this transmission to some missed shifts and other accidental abuses, rebuilding with good used is good enough.
'41 Rear End
After spending the afternoon working on the front brakes, my other friend (the one who assembled Twice Lucky's body) called to let me know he'd picked up the complete '41 rear end he'd told me about a few days ago. This came from an old guy early Ford restorer who knows his stuff and restores correctly. Only, he'd changed out the running gear in his '41 to Chevy stuff, and was unloading the offings. While the engine and trans had already gone down the road, he still had the complete rear end, which he offered up for a very favorable price.
Needless to say, I jumped at the chance. While this particular rear end may not go under the Model T, it may very well end up under the RPU. I don't have a complete rear end for that car (long story) and can therefore use the parts I was going to use for the RPU, along with a rare 4.44 ring and pinion and matching banjo, to build a third rear end for whatever (maybe even a homebrew quickchange!). When my friends showed up with the rear end (entirely in the back of their full-size Dodge pickup - I was impressed) I was stunned at the condition. Very clean and rebuilt correctly, down to the safety wire on the torque tube.
Has early ('39-'41) brakes with the lower eccentric adjusters (I'll lose those; too hard to adjust from what everyone tells me), the complete brake lines, emergency brake, torque tube and correct for '41 short radius rods, speedo gear, and bell assembly to the transmission. All painted and pretty, too. Apparently only had 1,000 miles or so on it. Oh, and it's (for me) the more desirable 3.78 ratio (rather than the somewhat common 4.11). I almost hate to cut it up (which I'd have to do for the T, but less so for the A: only shortening the torque tube).
My friends and I then spent the rest of today's very pleasant evening weather standing around old cars and shooting the bull. I think they'll be able to help me make up my lake headers, as it turns out! One thing at a time, though...
-30-
Transmission Rebuild
My friend who is a gear wizard with early Ford stuff (mixing and matching stuff that's not supposed to work together, amazing adaptations of overdrives, etc.) called me early this morning to see if today would work for him to come by and help me rebuild my '39 (for lack of a better year) transmission. I said sure, since I hadn't anticipated him coming by for a few days. In the span of just a couple of hours, some of which was spent catching up and showing off my project, he had virtually singlehandedly rebuilt the transmission, with me basically watching and learning (admittedly, there's not much to it; not enough for two guys).
What I started (and ended) with is a '37-'39 transmission case (they're all the same) with a '39 shifter top (double-detent; the rails on which each shifting fork slide have ball bearings pressing from each side, thereby supposedly holding the transmission more firmly in gear) and the correct fork for the later (better) synchro; and late ('46-'48) gears. My particular transmission had seen duty backing up a small block Chevy (I think a 283) and consequently had stripped teeth on the cluster and low-reverse sliding gears, so today's "rebuild" simply consisted of replacing those gears with some good used ones. The synchro brass was in good enough shape to retain, as was the rest of the brass and bearings. Since I'll likely subject this transmission to some missed shifts and other accidental abuses, rebuilding with good used is good enough.
'41 Rear End
After spending the afternoon working on the front brakes, my other friend (the one who assembled Twice Lucky's body) called to let me know he'd picked up the complete '41 rear end he'd told me about a few days ago. This came from an old guy early Ford restorer who knows his stuff and restores correctly. Only, he'd changed out the running gear in his '41 to Chevy stuff, and was unloading the offings. While the engine and trans had already gone down the road, he still had the complete rear end, which he offered up for a very favorable price.
Needless to say, I jumped at the chance. While this particular rear end may not go under the Model T, it may very well end up under the RPU. I don't have a complete rear end for that car (long story) and can therefore use the parts I was going to use for the RPU, along with a rare 4.44 ring and pinion and matching banjo, to build a third rear end for whatever (maybe even a homebrew quickchange!). When my friends showed up with the rear end (entirely in the back of their full-size Dodge pickup - I was impressed) I was stunned at the condition. Very clean and rebuilt correctly, down to the safety wire on the torque tube.
Has early ('39-'41) brakes with the lower eccentric adjusters (I'll lose those; too hard to adjust from what everyone tells me), the complete brake lines, emergency brake, torque tube and correct for '41 short radius rods, speedo gear, and bell assembly to the transmission. All painted and pretty, too. Apparently only had 1,000 miles or so on it. Oh, and it's (for me) the more desirable 3.78 ratio (rather than the somewhat common 4.11). I almost hate to cut it up (which I'd have to do for the T, but less so for the A: only shortening the torque tube).My friends and I then spent the rest of today's very pleasant evening weather standing around old cars and shooting the bull. I think they'll be able to help me make up my lake headers, as it turns out! One thing at a time, though...
-30-
Twofer
Didn't post the past two days; too wiped at the end of the day, though not necessarily from car stuff. Nonetheless, I did get some things done, as described and illustrated below.
Brakes
Beadblasted the brake grease baffles (Ford's name for them) for the rear brakes, and began fitting the front ones - tricky because of the different style brakes than original, resulting in interference from the wheel cylinder. And, on the left backing plate, I'm using a "hairpin" style steering arm, so the threads enter from the outside, with the nut on the inside where there's little room to tighten them inside the baffle. So, in true hot rod fashion, I got out my handy cutoff wheel and began hacking on a rusty baffle as a template for the nicer ones. Results below.
Baffle template, with access holes cut for tightening the nuts
Baffle template, installed
Electrical
Admittedly, it'll be some time before I'm ready for electrical work, but I'm at the "gotta plan ahead and order" stage so I'm crafting the system in the back of my head and considering the supplies I'll need, and the path: buy a harness, or build my own.
Having scoped out the wiring diagram in the gotta-have book, "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod" (Bishop and Tardel), and done some diligent research, and my own voluminous notes on what I want/need in an electrical system (based upon my years of working on funky old cars with hack-up wiring) I am considering building my own harness rather than buying. Main reason: I want it to look vintage by using braided wire and glass fuses (rather than the modern fuses and rainbow of fruit-flavored wiring found in most kits), and the price is likely cheaper buying the supplies and custom-building it to my applications, which are practically nil in this little buggy.
Free Advice
A word of advice on the aforementioned book, by the way: it's a great resource, and a great guide, but it ain't the bible. There are a few errors, which they've acknowledged and perhaps corrected in subsequent editions (I have an earlier one) and they've inadvertently jacked the prices on some parts that aren't necessary for a traditional build. Do yourself a favor if you're reading this and considering building your own rod: talk to people who have been there, done that - a lot of them. Go to the H.A.M.B. and look and listen. Find consensus, and/or pick your favorite answer, add that to your own opinion of what you want in a car, pick an era (mine is 1950-52) and stick to it, and then just trial-and-error your way through it. You can always change/upgrade later.
Today's project, by the way, is the brakes: hopefully just plugging away on assembling the front and rear backing plates.
-30-
Brakes
Beadblasted the brake grease baffles (Ford's name for them) for the rear brakes, and began fitting the front ones - tricky because of the different style brakes than original, resulting in interference from the wheel cylinder. And, on the left backing plate, I'm using a "hairpin" style steering arm, so the threads enter from the outside, with the nut on the inside where there's little room to tighten them inside the baffle. So, in true hot rod fashion, I got out my handy cutoff wheel and began hacking on a rusty baffle as a template for the nicer ones. Results below.
Baffle template, with access holes cut for tightening the nuts
Baffle template, installed
Electrical
Admittedly, it'll be some time before I'm ready for electrical work, but I'm at the "gotta plan ahead and order" stage so I'm crafting the system in the back of my head and considering the supplies I'll need, and the path: buy a harness, or build my own.
Having scoped out the wiring diagram in the gotta-have book, "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod" (Bishop and Tardel), and done some diligent research, and my own voluminous notes on what I want/need in an electrical system (based upon my years of working on funky old cars with hack-up wiring) I am considering building my own harness rather than buying. Main reason: I want it to look vintage by using braided wire and glass fuses (rather than the modern fuses and rainbow of fruit-flavored wiring found in most kits), and the price is likely cheaper buying the supplies and custom-building it to my applications, which are practically nil in this little buggy.
Free Advice
A word of advice on the aforementioned book, by the way: it's a great resource, and a great guide, but it ain't the bible. There are a few errors, which they've acknowledged and perhaps corrected in subsequent editions (I have an earlier one) and they've inadvertently jacked the prices on some parts that aren't necessary for a traditional build. Do yourself a favor if you're reading this and considering building your own rod: talk to people who have been there, done that - a lot of them. Go to the H.A.M.B. and look and listen. Find consensus, and/or pick your favorite answer, add that to your own opinion of what you want in a car, pick an era (mine is 1950-52) and stick to it, and then just trial-and-error your way through it. You can always change/upgrade later.
Today's project, by the way, is the brakes: hopefully just plugging away on assembling the front and rear backing plates.
-30-
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
