Lotsa Running Around in the Heat

Recovering from the nearly unbearably hot day today: worst I saw was 112 downtown. Also recovering today is one of my two cats, who gets to hang out at the cat hospital over the weekend for observation - kidney problems.

Car-wise, I had a friend come over and do a little frame work, otherwise, I was errand- and parts-running today. Took care of some civic volunteerism things today (yeah, I'm one of those guys). Picked up $1.55 worth of brake hold down parts from the brake place, dropped off my front Model A spring to open the eyes to 3/4" so I can use old Ford shackle studs, and checked on my starter and generator: generator was in, starter still awaiting Bendix. Finally, got my Ford gaskets and shackle studs that were shipped yesterday.

The hilarious thing is I got the parts shipped in time for the weekend, but nothing else is ready to go with them: spring (Wed), starter and generator (Tues, maybe Wed), carbs and distributor (ETA unknown).

I guess this means I'm working on brakes and the rear end this weekend.

-30-

Test Fit: Some Studying Required

Got a lot done today. Started early with an unexpected trip to the vet, results forthcoming. Afterward, got new bearing races at the bearing house (just $15 and some change). Went to the brake house to get hold-downs; yup, didn't have 'em. Will have them in by Friday. That works. Finally, stopped at the electrical rebuilder to check on the generator and starter. Generator will be in by Friday, starter by today or Friday. They were courteous and forward-thinking enough to order a replacement drive (Bendix) unit since mine was Okie-rigged (probably by the farmers from whose truck I extricated the motor).

Back home, I knocked out the new but wrong outside races and drove in the new, thankfully-correct races and test fit them. I was able to tighten the spindle nut correctly! Next, I pulled out the other, original set of F1 backing plates to study on how to assemble my new F1 brakes. With a little fussing and fighting (not having had to assemble brakes before; I've only torn them apart) I got them lubed and assembled properly.


Finally, for kicks, I mounted the loaded backing plate onto the spindle, mounted the hub, and set the brake drum on for fit. It all fit - hooray! Especially considering the disparate collection of parts that went into assembling them.


By the time I'd done all that, it was as nearly hot in the garage as it was outside: 105. So I quit for the day, but not before ordering up some parts for the next go-round: shackle bolts (tomorrow I'm getting the Model A front leaf spring eyes opened (pun) from 11/16" to 3/4" at the spring shop) and gaskets galore for the expected engine work (pulling pan for clutch replacement requires pan gasket; replacing intake gasket; and changing timing cover requires new gasket). More tomorrow!

This Ain't Rocket Science

Finally getting to the front end, which was my assigned task immediately following the great wishbone thrash. A couple things kept me from getting to this, but I'm not making excuses. I got the little bits taken care of (spindle work, bearings, and brake parts) and today I did the needlessly-feared grinding work on the front inside wheel bearings.

As you can see in the pictures below, to fit Ford F1 brakes on the early Ford (in my case, '42-'48) spindles you have to grind the inside surface of the wheel bearing so it fits snug up against the spindle, but without binding. (In simple terms, the bearing face is square, and the spindle is curved, so I had to grind a curve in the bearing.)

Spindle

Note curved surface

Bearings: stock and ground

Hub mounted

Unfortunately, when I replaced the bearing races in the hub several sessions ago, I replaced the worn F1 outside races with early Ford, because I read they're supposed to be the same. Not! The early Ford is deeper, which I thought would just push my hub dust cap out further, which I ground to fit. However, since the race is deeper, I can't properly seat the locking nut on the outside of the spindle, so tomorrow I'm going to the bearing house again to get the proper races, knock these out and replace them, which should allow me to tighten those bolts correctly.

Anyway, let's get to the title of this post: this grinding work was totally easy - a no-brainer. I was so worried about it. My Okie machinist friend said, essentially, 'it ain't rocket science,' and he was right. Just took an 80 grit sanding drum on the grinder and away I went. And, like he said, it didn't need to be perfect (although I tried) since the inside surface of the bearing keeps it square to the spindle, not the face.

The next part I did (after rinsing out the bearings) was packing them with grease. Yeah, this wasn't rocket science either, but I'd never done that before, and it looked it by the time I was done. Either the grease gun/bearing packet tool from the auto parts store wasn't designed to work with tapered bearings, or I just didn't know what I was doing. Probably a combination of both. So I gave up and just hand-packed them, which was a delightfully lovely greasy mess, but they got plenty of grease.

Finally, I had a little time left before going to dinner, so I started laying out my front brake components, as you can see below.

I'll complete the front brakes tomorrow. (Also, after I pick up four little hold-downs, probably a couple bucks' worth of parts, because I got too few when I was at the brake place; duh).

-30-

Same Story, Different Day

Got a few things done today. Mostly setting up appointments with friends to get stuff done, like rebuilding the transmission. Got a call from the rebuilder: the starters will be done Wednesday(!) and the generator by Friday! I'll have less than half the cost of the generator-imitating alternator invested in a rebuilt-for-12 volt original Ford generator. As far as I'm concerned, I've spent the savings on what the starter rebuild will likely cost.

Otherwise, had a friend come over and we worked a little on the frame, but not a lot of which to speak.

More tomorrow, I'm sure.

-30-

Parts and People

Today I dropped to the rebuilder my starter, my uncle's starter, and the generator. That was after my friend and I spent some time mocking up various fan/carrier/generator/intake combinations and came to the unpleasant realization that the cool fans I have all appear to be late ('49-'53) fans, and won't work with my combination - they're too close to the radiator.

So I put in a call to my parts friend to secure a '46-'48 fan, carrier, and lower double-sheave crank pulley so I basically run a stock setup.

Earlier in the day, I met my friend and his brothers for lunch, and went and toured the local brother's secret lair of motorcycles and more. Very cool.

Finally, I closed out the day by talking with another friend, the one who assembled Twice Lucky's body together. He's got a line on a complete rearend out of a formerly flathead-powered Ford. Supposed to be in great shape, and for a great price. We'll see tomorrow what comes of that. I can use it under the current hot rod, the next hot rod, or the next one...

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Yesterday Was a False Start

Ha! I have to admit I had a little fun titling this post. I'm kinda braindead from a long day working in the sun, so a bullet list will have to suffice for what I got done today. Sorry, no pics, but nothing today merited a picture.

- My uncle stopped by and we both deduced that my starter has a dead short, and should be rebuilt, in the meantime I can borrow a working starter from my uncle
- Got the starter from my uncle. Bolted it in; finally got it working. Was so hot and tired I started working stupid. Couldn't really figure out why I couldn't easily get it installed and running right off the bat.
- For kicks, I tried my starter again. Stupid thing spun like crazy. So much for my earlier deduction. Good thing I'm not a doctor; the patient would be dead by now.
- Alternately bolted in my starter and my uncle's. Got both to spin with the battery charger/starter, but nothing with the 6 volt battery.
- Although I could get the starters to spin, once the Bendix engaged, I didn't have enough juice to turn the motor. It was still free, however, as I was able to slip a socket, extension, and breaker bar through the crank hole in the radiator shroud and crank it by hand.
- Gave up on the starter jazz until I can get a 12 volt battery with some oomph.
- Filled the crankcase with 30 wt. and fabbed up a copper line and installed the oil pressure gauge.
- Attached the water temperature sender and gauge.
- Installed the radiator hoses (woo hoo, but it's gotta get done) and filled the radiator up again. Still no leaks (yay!).
- Then, hours later, I picked up a (apparently quite late) short-cased generator to get rebuilt for 12 volt. Funny thing is the bracket that mounts it to the front of the intake. Looks like '49-'53 to me, but what do I know? Anyway, took that and laid out some possible intake/generator/carrier/fan combinations using 3 intakes, 2 generators, 2 carriers, and 3 fans.
- Ran out of brain power and called it a night at 11p.
- Monday I'll do some more mocking up and take maybe the generator and for sure my uncle's starter to the rebuilder. May take my starter, too. Gotta make sure the generator will work in the configuration I end up with before I invest in rebuilding it.

-30-

Stupid Starter!

OK, so I probably started on the car too late today, but it's my first day of vacation. So this afternoon I got myself all prepped to apply power to the starter to see if she turned, then check compression, then check oil pressure.

Yeah, didn't even get past step one. I applied power from both a battery charger/starter and a 6 volt car battery (once I charged it up) and got nothing but sparks. Checked continuity and confirmed my fears: it's grounding inside the case. I've had this happen before with old and rusty starters. Pulled it apart and blew it out once, reassembled and installed. Same thing. Took it apart again and realized that it's probably just too much metal dust/rust all over everything inside it that's grounding it out. So I'll take it in to the rebuilder on Monday to see if it's cheaper to rebuild than buy a brand new one with a new-fangled Bendix.

It's frustrating that I can't start it this weekend, but I've got other things to keep me occupied. Plus, it might save me a trip, since I have my friend looking for a short-cased generator I can have the shop rebuild for 12 volts. But what I'd hoped to do this weekend isn't going to happen, unless my uncle has a starter I can borrow just to spin the motor.

**Update: After I posted this, I Googled around for flathead starters and learned to my pleasantly dumbstruck surprise that apparently I already have a 12 volt starter, as determined by the longer case/shorter mounting plate. Hooray!**

-30-

Everything You See is Suspect

This doesn't have anything to do with cars (which is probably a relief to some of you).

Today I went to pick up new glasses: regular and sun. The sunglasses are polarized, which I don't think I've worn before. When I put them on in the shop, everything - including my glasses in my reflection - was "shiny," which the optician attributed to the polarization. Otherwise, they seemed fine - until I went outside. Everything felt "black and white," like when you wear a pair of old-fashioned 3-D glasses (red and blue) outside. Again, I chalked it up to polarization, new prescription, etc., until I got in the truck and drove toward the brightly illuminated asphalt of the parking lot. Something was wrong, and I couldn't determine what until I alternately closed one eye. The asphalt was bright white through one lens, but black with texture through the other.

I took them back in and tried to describe to the optician what I saw, without trying to sound deranged. Finally, she looked through them at a polarization test/display image. Here's what we saw:

Without Polarization

Correct Polarization

"Inverse?" Polarization

Once I looked at the display, I had a twinge of "Matrix" paranoia (although I admit I've not seen the movie, so forgive my naive reference) that you can't really trust anything you see. If just a change in some coating on my lens (invisible when looking at the lens) can 1) bring out an image not there, and 2) reverse it subjectively depending upon how the coating is applied, then how can one trust anything we see? (And don't even get me started on manipulated images in popular media.)

-30-

So it's a hot rod, after all

Had a blast at the car show tonight, although at one point, there were so many free-roaming people, I was getting nervous for the car and myself, so I parked myself in my uncle's Model T RPU and just grinned like a mad fool at everyone walking by.

Earlier, I felt like I regular showman: "come one, come all - watch the skinny guy crank-start a Model T and NOT break his thumb/hand/arm!" Yeah, no kidding, every time I fired up that T the crowd formed. They loved it - the sound, the rocking of the car, the smell(!), and it restored my confidence in modern folks having any interest in ancient technology. Even greater crowds formed when I crank started it. It was hilarious - I mean, literally shouting encouragement and cheering when it started! (once with just half a crank since it was near the top of the compression stroke; that's when I almost lost my hand/arm, but the crowd didn't know it).

The car ran OK on the way there - terribly hot day, but I felt more confident than the previous year. The drive home was memorable. She ran like a champ, and began to sound better (louder) and better (even louder) the closer I got. I realized the exhaust manifold was coming undone. It sounded great - a regular banger hot rod sound! I took to alternately revving up and down the T as we cruised past people or through quiet neighborhoods. I chalked it up to analyzing the motor unimpeded by the muffler stifling the motor's sound.

So, when we got to my uncle's, I checked under the hood to discover the situation highlighted in the photo below: the nut that attaches the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold had come undone and traveled all the way down the tailpipe to the muffler! So I was running her home with open exhaust - that's why she sounded so good! It's an easy fix.


Saturday begins my two-week thrash on the hot rod, beginning with checking the junkyard flathead for compression and oil pressure. Hopefully this weekend I can get her to fire with (some) carburetor and with my uncle's distributor on the 2-bolt timing cover that I'll need to install on the flathead, replacing its 3-bolt cover, since the old-timer here in town is rebuilding my carbs and distributor (I hope; he wasn't feeling well this week).

-30-

Heritage

Was at my uncle's again tonight. Below is a pic of two of his Fords. I get to drive the one on the right to a car show Friday. 1927 Model T Roadster Pickup (RPU, remember?). Original/Restored local car; yeah, with the three pedals (C, R, B), two levers (spark, fuel), hand brake, and Ruckstell control. The other's a 1940 standard coupe. Hard to believe just 13 years separate them. How different do the '95s look from today's cars, huh?

Enjoy.

-30-

Fancy Flathead Stand

Here's what I did to accessorize my de facto flathead engine test stand: added the cowl from the RPU and an extra cowl top/fuel tank. Let's hope the motor runs well enough to justify the extra effort.

-30-

Free Advice

I almost forgot that on Saturday I stopped by my uncle's and picked up some parts that will help me light that flathead: battery, plug and coil wires (cool fabric/lacquered wires) then stopped by my engine rebuilder/Ford hot rod parts pusher friend to settle my debt for the Model T rear spring and check on a 3-bolt to 2-bolt distributor adapter plate so I can run the '42 crab style distributor.

Well, by the time I was done, I had traded a '34 stock front axle (that I got when I bought Twice Lucky's chassis) for the Model T spring, left my distributor and dropped off four Chandler-Groves/Holley 94 carburetors. My friend's going to have an old-timer with an old shop and working knowledge of ancient Ford technology set up the distributor (and possibly a second, spare distributor - you always need a spare) on his strobe machine (see, ya set up flathead distributors off the engine and they just bolt in place, ready to go - that's why you carry a spare: two or three bolts and you're back on the road) and rebuild the four carbs into two good ones (then I can run a single stock intake and have a spare carb, or have two good ones for a dual intake and just need one more rebuilt if I go that direction (doubtful at this time, considering the hassle of off-set mounting the generator).

Wow, that previous paragraph was just one (check; two) long sentence(s). Grammarians beware!

This brings me to the free advice/cajoling I had to endure from my friend, but he raised several good points that should help me save time and money, and maintain the period authenticity (and simplicity) I'm pursuing on this project:

1. Run a generator. Just convert it to 12 volts and hide the regulator somewhere (probably inside the firewall). What accessories do you need a (horribly expensive "generator-imitating") alternator for? For that matter, all the gauges I'm gonna run should be mechanical, anyway ('36 speedometer, temp, oil pressure; exception, obviously, is ammeter).

2. Why buy a new galvanized Model T tank? (He knows I already have a gennie one that I had blasted/boiled out) And what do you need a sender and fuel gauge for? (He's right: fewer wires, less expense, fewer gauges to clutter up the dash, and how far will I be driving anyway? Plus, I've always wanted to just use the Model T method anyway: the measuring stick).

3. Why not use the Arrow headlights I already have, that use sealed beams, rather than trying to take the time now to convert/set up the '36 Pontiac headlights I have (even though they have parking lights-which can become turn blinkers-in them). And as he was describing this to me, I decided that I can use the time saved on the headlights to cut up the rusty/hacked on Model A headlight bar I have and use it to make the period-style headlight stands that mount on the frame rails. I can always run the Pontiacs later.

In fact, I have to remember that this car's build isn't set in stone, just a period. I can always change/upgrade it later, just like folks did the first time around.

After he'd suggested all of this, I thanked him for the advice/reality check, and he qualified all that he'd just said by saying that I should remember it was only free advice, after all.

-30-

Ugh, Finally!

Jeez, looking at these images I realize the photos belie the amount of work it took to get there.

In any event, today I got the flathead installed in the '32 frame. Bolted the empty trans case and rear mount on the back. Set the motor mounts in the front and swiveled the cherry picker around (surprisingly easy, too, once I figured how the adjust the legs and swivels, duh) and dropped it in (with some wrangling).

Scraped the top of the intake deck to see if I could find any casting/rebuild numbers to see if I could better date the block. Nada. Shop-vac'd out the intake ports (a little rust down one, heavy carbon down another, detritus down the others. Did the same with the intake, then bolted it on. Just before I did that, I dropped the fuel pump rod in its bore to prevent oil leaks.

Next, I mounted the radiator: original Model A top tank, new 3-row core, fabricated bottom tank, '29 Model A shell. One of the hoses on the motor worked just right on the bottom, otherwise I used top hoses I already had, and one bottom hose from my uncle. Clamped them on, filled it with water to see if she leaks. She hadn't after an hour or so. Looks good!

Flathead, no intake

Flathead, intake, radiator

View through the radiator

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501s: Case Closed

To bring a merciful end to this hapless fashion thread for all 3 of you following the misadventures of my shrink-to-fit 501s: I finally wore them this weekend. They fit great. It was worth the agony. I'm a regular fashion plate.

-30-

So Close...

A little update on Saturday's progress. I might do more today...I might not. Depends on how I feel.

In any event, today's image depicts the junkyard flathead awaiting installation in my '32 frame which will humbly serve as the engine test stand for now. Just need to slap the empty trans case on the back of the motor, install rear mount and motor mounts, and drop it in place.

-30-

Oh, yeah!

Okay, my machinist friend rules. Did a test on the drag link hole on my spindles to see if he could cut the taper and leave enough meat to bolt on the ball joint (I know, I need a pic for visuals here - Friday, I promise). Had it done by noon and I checked it out - worked! So, he asked when I needed them and I suggested Friday, but we share the same day off, so he cut them while I waited! Total charge: $15!

Before
After
Oh, yeah.

I need to get some pics of his shop: classic; gears, wagon wheels, metal shavings, tools, ancient milling machines, and the pervasive smell of slightly burnt metal and cutting oil.

-30-

Just a Quickie

OK, today I went to my favorite Okie machinist (I sure know a lot of Okies, it seems) who told me to grind down the F1 bearings to fit my '42 spindles (like all the hot rod magazines said anyway, despite my other friend's well-meaning advice). Plus, he'll try putting the (7 degree?) ball joint taper in the top of the spindles' steering arms so I can have the tie rod ride above the wishbone (all of this is lost on the non-car folks without a visual, I know; I'll try to add an "after" photo so you can follow along at home).

Next, I went to the brake emporium to get hold-down hardware for the F1 brakes, and confirm my wheel cylinder setup for the '46 rear brakes. I either have to modify the backing plate mounting holes for the modern 2-bolt wheel cylinders, or cross my fingers that I have a good set of 1" straight-bore wheel cylinders to use, so that my brake pressure is evenly balanced between the front and rear brakes with my dual-reservoir master cylinder. (Whew! Try saying that 3 times fast!)

Brake Parts Galore
This weekend I'll try to set up my '32 frame on the front spring, wishbone, and axle, and a couple jack stands in back, and use it as a test stand for my junkyard flathead. Hope to assemble 'Lucky's front end and brakes and, finally, order a chunkload of hot rod parts for the flathead, etc., to arrive in time for my two-week vacation car thrash coming up!

-30-

Insert Witty Title Here

Okay, too whipped to come up with a witty title, so I'll simply recall (briefly, 'cause I'm tired) today's progress:

1. Rear Brakes

Bead blasted the rear backing plates today; cannibalized enough sets of rear brakes (plus got in my one new rear shoe) to assemble the rear brakes. However, discovered the rear wheel cylinders are a modern type that will not bolt right up without modifying the backing plates. I have no qualms doing that, but want to confirm I got the right cylinders before I start cutting on original Ford parts.

2. Front End/Brakes
Was prepared to assemble the front wheels today; yesterday picked up my '40 wheels with old 6.00x16 tires/tubes mounted (sorry, no pic) to check out the ride height/determine my front wheel size. Also picked up my F1 drums (again, no pic, sorry) from the mail center. However, a friend came by about the time I was going to fool with fitting the inner bearing in preparation to grind on it to get it to fit the spindle (as I'd read in all those car magazines). He thought I should trim down the spindle to fit the bearing, since the bearing's gotta ride straight and true or it might fail (and we don't want that). Aside from his input, I also discovered the bearing will not even fit on these spindles (inside diameter a wee bit too small) but will fit the other spindles. So, I'm off to the machine shop on Monday to trim the spindle to fit two ways, and recut the tapers in the steering arms so the tie-rod will ride above the wishbone (believe me, if you're a hot rodder, you'd get that last statement; if not, don't worry - it just saves me heating and bending front end parts).

3. Rear Spring

Since I could not make much progress on the other fronts, I took the post-dinner hours to knock the shackle bushings from the Model T rear spring. This was quick and fun work, if you can imagine such a thing at 10 at night. I'm sure the neighbors appreciated my John Henry impression as I used a hammer and driver to simultaneously pound out my frustrations and the bushings. Both came out relatively quickly and painlessly, as evidenced in the photo above (note: only the bushings are depicted, you'll have to visualize the frustrations dissipating).

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$4.50 Fashion Fix

Loyal readers (all 3 of you) will recall my misadventures with a pair of what used to be one of the bastions of American fashion: Levi's 501s.

So, I never provided an update on my 1-800 call: I can return them to the store (an insult and annoyance to the store owner, as far as I'm concerned, as it was Levi's who created the problem, not them) or to Levi's via a return form (but no reimbursement to me for the shipping to them). So I ask for the form remorsefully, knowing I'm unlikely to return the jeans because of the cost, annoyance, and most of all, all the fun/labor I spent shrinking them to fit. So I began thinking of alternative solutions.

The easiest, and what turned out to be the cheapest and best, was simply asking my dry cleaner to mend them. She did an admirable job. And for all of $4.50. Are you kidding me? I almost kissed her when she handed them over looking just like a factory fix, folded up in their plastic bag, and told me my total.

Next episode in this (probably terribly boring) fashion story will be the jeans' debut. Stay tuned (har de har).

-30-

Learning Curve

Well, what with having pulled one flathead in the last few weeks, tonight I got to employ those same skills learned in the wrecking yard in helping pull the flathead from my uncle's '50 sedan.

What I thought would be a quick post-workday shade tree mechanic lesson quickly developed into donning my garage fatigues, sliding under the sedan, and removing the last, hard-to-reach-unless-you-have-skinny-arms bolt on the transmission, then hooking up the come-along and pulling the whole motor out. A little more involved and therefore not as easy as the wrecking yard experience, and therefore more educational.

Good, hard, greasy work...and I love it.

-30-

My Welding Day

Startling, engaging, and amusing text to follow later - I'm out on the town tonight! These pictures and brief descriptions should suffice for now to demonstrate today's progress. -30-

Rough-cutting Model A wishbone

Trim-cutting Model A wishbone

Drilling for rosette welds

Rosette welding

Tack-welding wishbone pieces together

The semi-finished product!

Workin' hard on my day off

Today being a day off from my day job, I worked just as hard and got a lot done! Let's see, a quick list:

- Bought metal scraps for the chassis at the local ag/industrial supply, which is a toy store for a hot rod builder!
- Ordered from a Ford parts warehouse my F1 front brake drums, and one '46 style bonded rear brake shoe to go with the other three good ones I have
- Picked up my '39 pedal assembly-to-Pinto/Mustang master cylinder adaptor at the local street rod shop
- Bought materials at the local hardware shop to plug my uncle's MIG into my 220v outlet
- Sold my defunct boat (but was gonna be a utility) trailer to my neighbor, thereby freeing up room on the side of the house
- Used said neighbor to move the Model A roadster pickup (RPU from here on out) project (did I mention I have a 2nd hot rod project? Yeah, it'll be the later, pretty one) outta the garage and onto the deck to give me some wiggle room in the garage
- Made some more room on the garage floor to work
- Disassembled and reassembled the front end assemblies, in preparation for tomorrow's wishbone work
- Sat in the T after it was all said and done, reflecting on the work I got done, and my tired muscles (I didn't begin to describe to you all of the "regular" errands I also ran today!)

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