Here are the rest of the images and description of installing the flathead in the chassis. It was sad to discover upon looking back through my posts that I got this motor running about a year ago. Well, I may be slow, but I'm persistent.
Here's the flathead on the K.R. Wilson engine stand, which works really well to move the motor into place over the frame. I was only limited by the front wishbone. I think if the car were at real ride height, this wouldn't have been an issue.
See how the stand just slides under the brake drum and interferes with the wishbone? (although the curve in the stand helps cheat a few more inches)
Next, I hooked up the chain fall and unbolted the motor from the stand (again, where it's been for about a year). This was scary, as I had to balance tension on the chain with unscrewing the bolts from the exhaust manifold bolt holes. At the very end, the last bolt let go with a pop! taking the leading 1/8 turn of the first thread of the bolt hole in the block. I felt really lucky it didn't pull a lot more thread out.
Here's the engine, free of the stand
And, here it is rotated and resting on the frame, so I can install the transmission.
In preparation for installing the engine and transmission as one unit, I reversed the K.R. Wilson engine removing fixture that goes in the lifter valley. I'm not sure where I originally learned that, turned one direction, it balances the motor. Turned the other direction, it balances the motor and transmission.
Here I'm installing the trans, with a little persuasion from a brass sledge, to seat the transmission on the mounting dowels.
Ta da! The transmission is installed! I sure hope I didn't forget anything. I lubed everything (pilot bushing, clutch release fork and bushing, input gear nose) with black high-temp grease.
A quick aside to recognize where many a hot rodder's hours go when building a hot rod using original hardware: cleaning parts. In this case, wire-brushing all the original Ford nuts and bolts (and washers) that will hold this car together. It's satisfying work, but dirty, monotonous, and tiring. And, after many bolts, a little dangerous; I've often lost the top layer of skin when I lay into something a little hard and the wheel throws it and my finger goes into the wheel. I just remember the line my friend told me years ago when I first used a wire-brush wheel: "you can't fear the wheel, but you have to respect the wheel."
And, of course, always remember to wear proper eye protection. Just 'cause chicks dig pirates doesn't mean you want to go around wearing an eye patch.
Next, I installed the transmission rear bearing retainer and transmission mount. On the '32 transmission mount, you need a rear bearing retainer (2-piece assembly) unique to '32-'34 transmissions, although I think you can fabricate one by cutting the transmission mounting ears off a later rear bearing retainer). Notice, however, that I neglected to safety-wire the bolts. I have to remember to go back and do that.
Then I installed the U-joint, using the unique washer that is "peened" to not rotate in the U-joint.
Despite many requests from friends, I could not turn up by the time of installation a set of the unique (again, to '32-'34?) T-bolts that go through the rear mount and are used to bolt up the torque tube bells. So, I did what every other hot rodder has done: I used the largest Ford bolts that would fit (3/8" shank?).
Here's the completed assembly.
Now, I don't have any images of me actually installing the motor, so you'll just have to imagine me (a pretty lean guy) wrestling several hundred pounds of flathead motor and trans into place, under the T's cowl, and into position to mount to the crossmember and hover and bolt into place over the motor mounts. I have to say I'm quite proud that I was not only able to successfully wrestle it in place, but that everything lined up and bolted up beautifully, so all those months of fussing, fuming, and measuring paid off!
Some images of the completed work:
The '42-'48 crankshaft double pulley just clears the front spring U-bolt and rear of the front crossmember, not necessitating trimming it down, as described in the Bishop-Tardel book, which surprised me. While I have to squeeze the belts past these items in a snug fit (wouldn't want to do it in a rainstorm on the side of the road), they fit without modification, which makes me happy!
Next, in preparation for mocking up the engine accessories to check clearances, in particular the fan to the radiator, I cleaned up the intake manifold. So as not to lose the "provenance" of this as a true junkyard (Pick-n-Pull) motor, I just wanted to clean off the major grease and dirt, yet leave the "patina" of old and flaking (if any) paint, surface rust, and the all-important junkyard marking pen.
I had to use an e-z-out type tool to remove the rounded-off brass bolt for the vacuum line.
I was a little started to discover an old mud wasp nest under the intake snout. I've handled this quite a lot without noticing that!
Finally, I found it interesting that, on this intake at least, it appears that not only does the carb gasket block off what I believe is the heat riser, but the hole in the intake is blocked off, too.
As I understand it, the heat risers (often blocked off on the top of the intake deck with a pair of nickels to keep colder, condensed air going to the intake) help preheat the carburetor to help starting in cold weather. Since the intake is apparently blocked off already, I see no need to put nickels in the intake deck, plus I've read on line that people often find them dropping through the block, into the exhaust port (where the heat comes from) and rolling out the exhaust pipe!
And here are some pics of the mock-up.
Pre-radiator
Close-up with carb (but not the one I'll be running)
Hooray! The fan clears!
About 1/4" clearance now, but I can elongate the mounting holes to slide the bottom of the radiator forward. I have plenty of clearance at the top. With the radiator perpendicular to the frame (but not to the body? Can't figure that one out yet), it is tilting "away" from the fan at the top, so there's more clearance.
Finally, the latest, greatest photo of the mocked-up accessories on the motor. Still need to get the proper fan-to-crank belt.
After installing the motor and trans, I had to see where the pedal assembly was in relation to them, so I installed that next.
Just a reminder that this is a '33 pedal assembly, which explains the angle of the pedals, which differs from the ubiquitous '32 pedal assemblies. I think these look more elegant.
This concludes a really long post about what really wasn't that long of a day in the garage: maybe 10 working hours in a 12-hour day? (Labor Day, no less!)
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